With the suspension all uprated to genuine Group A parts, this month I turned my attention to the car’s fuel system. The old track-day setup featured a fuel tank that was simply too small to last a full race distance, and as I needed to replace the tank with a much larger item, it made sense to re-do the entire system to ensure everything is tip-top before that first green flag drops in a few weeks time.

Therefore, I removed the old track-day set-up and set about making a race-ready system. The first issue I had to address was the spare wheel well area – previously I cut the original steel away and fitted a shallower aluminium tray, on which I mounted the fuel pumps, filters, and a swirl pot. I then had a small alloy tank mounted in the area beside the spare wheel well.

As I now need a much larger capacity fuel tank I need to make use of the spare wheel well again, so I had a custom alloy piece made by XXXX so that is drops in from above and is bolted in place (using riv-nuts) to effectively reinstate the spare wheel well. There is a hole in the centre of this, as you can see from the photos, which is where the built-in swirl pot/sump on the new alloy tank will fit, ensuring there is always a fuel supply to the pumps no matter hard we’re cornering or braking.

With the old tank removed, there was another hole – this time square – in the original boot floor that I needed to address. So, I decided to use this as the area to mount to the two Bosch 044 Motorsport fuel pumps and filters, but on the underside. Once again XXX made me a neat mounting bracket from aluminium, and I knocked up a simple square plate (painted white to match the inside/underside of the car) which blanks the square hole when everything is bolted together. From inside you can just see four cap-head bolts, but you can see the plate and alloy mounting brackets better from the underside.

The rest of the system needs to be plumbed in, but I won’t start running any fuel lines until I have the engine and gearbox in, so I can work out the best way to route everything.

In the meantime though, while fabrication bits from alloy plate I turned my hand to making a new dash gauge panel. I wanted to swap all the gauges over to Stack items (for better reliability and accuracy) before we went racing, so I made a new panel to fit in the dash binnacle. This time, though, it houses an 80mm rev counter, and 52mm water temp and boost pressure gauges too, as well as the warning lights too.

But don’t think that’s the only gauges we’ve got to keep an eye on things; there’s more mounted in alloy panels in the centre console too. Here, there are two more banks of gauges; the top bank features oil temperature, fuel pressure, and oil pressure; while the lower bank includes EGT, volts, and transmission oil temperature gauges. Furthermore, I’ve added three re-settable trip switches in the same panel, so now if we lose power to anything I can just re-set the trip from the driver’s seat and continue racing, whereas previously I would have needed to come into the pits to change a fuse. It’s little things like this that really highlight the difference between a track car and a race car; on a track car a blown fuse is no problem, but on a race car it could potentially ruin your entire race!

Now that the gauges are in place and the fuel system is all bolted up it’s almost time to fit the race engine. Oh, and some shiny new AP brakes have just turned up too, so I’ll get those all in place soon too. Exciting times and the first race date draws ever closer.



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